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== Multimedia Viewer ==
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[[File:S1_Pro_IO_Panel_1024.jpg|thumb]]
  
== Using the Countryman E6 with the T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine ==
 
  
=== Why Choose the Countryman? ===
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== Articles ==
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<div id="articlecount" style="font-size:85%;">[[Special:Statistics|{{NUMBEROFARTICLES}}]] articles in [[English language|English]]</div>
  
It is always a good idea to start with a phone call to the manufacturer, and with Countryman, you will find a helpful staff who clearly believe in their product. The first decision that has to be made is whether to go with the Cardioid or Omni patterned E6. Countryman explains that one key difference for live sound is that the cardioid pattern mics are more susceptible to extra noises like wind and handling, as compared to the omni. They recommended the directional version for use with volume levels that would be common in a rock and roll environment and the omni version for most other applications.
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== Labelled Section Transclusion==
  
The second decision point is to determine why a head worn microphone makes sense for you. For many performers, there may be a desire to break free from the confines of a microphone stand and go for more mobility, while retaining a consistent sound. True, a singer can always use a hand held microphone, but if they need their hands, this option won't work. While there are many head worn microphones available to provide a solution for mobility, the Bose L1 introduces an interesting dynamic that warrants a close look at the E6.
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=== {{Model II nl}}: Can I run a Stereo Source to the Power Stand  ===
  
Performing with the L1 means the stage is less cluttered and the space between the performer and audience is opened up in a way that is more warm, personal, and inviting. Where this, more direct, connection between the performer and audience is valued, it is a natural step to eliminate the microphone and stand as well. This is where the E6 comes into its own. It is so unobtrusive that it will almost completely disappear on the singer, and once the music begins, the audience will forget the microphone and simply hear the performer singing to them.
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{{#lst:L1® Model II|Stereo Source to Power Stand Analog Input}}
  
=== Setting the microphone's position ===
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=== Lower Section Only ===
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{{#lst:L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker|Lower Half Only}}
  
The E6i is a more flexible version that is better suited for adjusting to multiple people who wear it, but if only one person is using the microphone, the E6 is much more stable than the E6i and can be worn close to the face more easily. The closer the boom is to the face, the more invisible it will seem. However, be careful if you are using the directional version as contact with the boom will be amplified. The omni is much less susseptible to this and can even be worn with the boom touching the face almost all the way down to the capsule.
 
  
Following Countryman's fitting directions is pretty straightforward, and it feels more stable on the ear than you might expect. Of course, if you tend to move your head quickly, you will want to purchase the stabilizing accessory that goes behind the head and around the other ear. You will have to work with the positioning to get it back far enough to prevent breath noises, particularly from the "f" sounds that direct wind out the corner of the mouth. To test for this, try saying "face" (while smiling) during a sound check. If you get a blowing sound, then you need to place it further back.
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Link to a category page. [[:Category:B1|Articles about the B1]]
  
=== Gain...To feedback, or not to feedback ===
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Feedback...wow, there is an often misunderstood concept. Basically, the idea is to get the microphone as close to the sound source as possible and as far from the amplification system as possible. When distance cannot be altered any more, what else is left to do? There are several options available to you, particularly if you are using the T1 with your Bose L1. The parametric equalizer and ZEQ are both tools that can be used to squeeze a few more db out of the system.
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{{:Category:Feedback}}
  
In larger and more open rooms, feedback will be less of a problem than with more confined spaces. Hard surfaces will be particularly problematic, especially if there is a low ceiling. In these types of rooms, a rug placed under and in front of both the L1 and B1 will help significantly, but if you play a variety of venues and you are using the E6 Omni, do yourself a favor and scout the venue and / or bring a backup microphone.
 
  
Here is the process I used for a starting point with the E6 Omni: First, I sat myself down in a chair about 2 feet in front and facing away from my L1 (model II). The T1 was on my lap, and I was wearing the (now adjusted) E6. I began by following the Bose Manual's instructions for gain staging. Then, I turned it up till I could hear myself through the tower.
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The E6 omni comes with three caps: one with a flat response, one with a small bump at 15000 and one with a large bump at 15000. I put the flat one on and set the Tonematch preset to "Headworn Mics." It sounded a little boomy, so I turned down the Low zEQ setting to -6.6. This improved things, but there was still a lot of sizzle on the high end, so that got adjusted down to -2.8...nice. This is an abbreviated version of the process, btw...the actual fiddling took a good deal of time and experimentation, even with different presets.
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[[Media:0511 CFDT DJ letter r06.pdf|open a pdf]]
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Now it mostly sounded like me, only louder (that is my objective), so I started ratcheting up the gain and noticed a high ring and some obtrusive sibilance, so I used the parametric EQ to adjust and ultimately set it at: Level -11.2, Freq 13407 and Width .51oct. That also seemed to help with some of the sizzle. To further address the sibilance, I used the De-esser set to Threshold -25.5 and Gain .2db. Ahhh that sounded nicer, but now it was too much like me...I wanted it a little fatter (not much), so I added a very slight amount of chorus2 set at Mix 14% and Depth 73%. Then I added reverb at Mix 12% and Brightness at 7% (reverb type is Large, Time 2.20s, and Bal 50%).
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{{#Click:Digitech Vocalist Live 2 - Alternative Method to Connect to a T1®|Image:VocalistLive2.jpg|90px|Read the article on how to connect the Digitech Vocalist Live 2 to a T1®}}
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{{#Click:Downloads|Image:Downloads green arrow.gif|update your system}}
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At the peak volume I could obtain (two feet in front of the L1), the main gain was set at 1 o'clock and the E6 gain was set around 3 o'clock. I was pleased, to say the least, but it probably isn't enough volume for the rockers among us. For my own purposes, I can't imagine needing to be louder where I didn't have a lot more room on stage. That is the key, though. How does it do in actual performance?
 
  
=== Performing with the E6 - L1 combo ===
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I was anxious to see how it sounded, and at our first gig, I was very pleased. I have gotten in the habit of turning the volume up, just enough to feel "pushed" or "supported" by the L1 (don't know how else to describe the feeling). That volume level seems perfect for most venues. Larger venues need a little more "push", but with the L1 doesn't need to feel as loud as the stage volumes of some groups. For a large gym, there was no problem whatsoever, and the combo sounded fantastic.  
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The next gig was in a basement...a long, wide, and low room with pillars every 15 feet or so. Loud fans were blowing, so the noise floor was high. This was a true nightmare room. The omni-directional E6 really is sensitive to the room environment, and this room was ideally situated to feedback. The ceiling was about 8 inches above the L1, and the walls and floor were a fabulously reflective concrete. Reverb and Chorus had to go off here, because they would only muddy things more. Even so, the system in this configuration was easy to get to feedback. This meant a little tweaking with EQ, but when it was all set up so that I was "pushed" by the sound coming from the L1 and the reflections from the audience's side of the room were kept at a minimum, it sounded great.
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=== But Can it Get LOUD? ===
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We used the combo in another nightmare room. It had hard floors and a medium low ceiling (about 3 ft above the L1). It was short and wide, but the floor proved the biggest problem for feedback. I placed a rug directly in front of both the L1 and B1, and this knocked down the reflections so that it wasn't much of a problem at all. In fact, we managed to have the system cranked higher than ever at this venue. It was the first time I have played with an electric drum kit, and the drummer had a big amp that he had turned up incredibly loud.
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I tried to talk him into turning down, but the event planners wanted loud, so they asked me to turn up to match the volume of the drum...ok...no problem. After the first night we received comments about the loudness (it was VERY loud - to the point of uncomfortable). The drummer liked it, but it was definitely too much. After fielding complaints about how loud it was, we decided to turn down, and I asked the drummer if he would like to hear his drums through the L1. We set it up, and the sound was far superior (even with only one B1) and was more than enough for the small room. We left him plugged into the L1 the rest of the week and turned it down to more humane levels. Lots of good audience comments after that.
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The volume that can be achieved, even with the omni version, is more than sufficient in most situations, and if you are looking for clear and transparent vocals through the L1, the Countryman E6 deserves a look.  
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Numbered Bullets
--[[User:Tpryde3|Tpryde3]] 18:45, 15 October 2008 (EDT)
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# Wire up the PS1 Powerstand connections
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Link to an external image (just type in the URL) like this image from the Bose Site
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Cliff-at-Bose wrote<ref>[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7466055944/m/3371001663?r=3451021663#3451021663 Cliff-at-Bose wrote about B1s and proximity to walls]</ref>
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Depends on the wall construction. Most drywall will reinforce midbass (like 100-250 Hz) and let the deeper octave or so pass right on thru giving you little reinforcement from reflection. So if you push your bass boxes up against the wall, you'll tend to get a lot of midbass with a typical drywall-constructed wall. And, yeah, then it will be muddy. Most walls don't reflect sound uniformly with frequency, so you get a change in spectrum you probably don't want no matter what. One possible exception to this is, say, 6" thick concrete with a 1/4" thick lining of steel. Oh, and don't take my word for it either. Do it yourself and see what you hear. Also, aiming the individual bass boxes won't have much effect as they are so much smaller than the wavelengths they are producing that they are virtually omni. For instance, a 125Hz wavelength is on the order of 8 feet. A pair of b1's on each side of your ps1 will give you a hotter midbass down the middle and not so off to the side. Here, you've essentially made a crude bass array. So, my experience with all this tells me that the most consistant way to set the bass up, gig to gig, is to lump the bass boxes together and keep them away from the walls. You won't get the extra bass boost from the walls, but if you did, it wouldn't be wideband. I think you'll always do better not asking the wall to help. You know what they say about free help (you get what you pay for). This works for bass players, dj's and so on.
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{{#lst:Warranty Information|T1 ToneMatch™ Audio Engine}}
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[http://toonz.ca/bose/wiki/index.php?title=Composite_Acoustics_7M-CE_Grand_Auditorium_Guitar_Review http://toonz.ca/bose/wiki/images/1/1e/7M-CE_F_6in-1.jpg]
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Latest revision as of 05:36, 25 November 2018

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L1® Model II: Can I run a Stereo Source to the Power Stand

A ¼ inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve connector carrying a stereo signal should not be used with the analog input on the Model II.

Even though a ¼ inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve connector can carry a stereo signal this is not how this physical connection is used on the Sandbox Power Stand.

The analog input on the Model II is balanced, and will therefore subtract the Left and Right signals on a stereo cable and you will hear an L-R (Left minus Right) signal in the Model II.

You cannot 'get through the gig' this way if you are a DJ or if you need to run prerecorded music or have stereo inputs.

TRSfromStereoRCAModelII.png

TRSfromStereo14ModelII.png

18stereoTo14stereoModelII.png


Using a Mixer

L1 Model II

Alesis MultiMix8USBBehringer UB1202Mackie 1202 VLZ ProNumark CD Mix-2Spirit NotepadYamaha MG82/FX

If you are using a mixer instead of a T1 ToneMatch Audio Engine use the mixer to create a mono output and send that to the Model II Power Stand Analog input.

  • If there is a stereo/mono switch then use it and send the mono output to the Model II Power Stand Analog input.
  • If there is a Left/mono output then use that and send it to the Model II Power Stand Analog input.
  • If there is no way to create a mono output then pan all your mixer inputs all the way to one side (e.g. Left) and then take the mixer for that side (e.g. Left) output and send it to the Model II Power Stand Analog input.



Lower Section Only

Q: Can I run with only the lower section of the L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker?

A: From a technical standpoint it is safe to operate the system with only the lower section of the Sandbox , however the spatial and spectral performance of will be greatly reduced, so this has only a very limited application. - Hilmar-at-Bose[1]

Correcting the Tone

Try inserting a ¼ inch connector in the Bass Line Out of the Power Stand. This will cause the internal logic to reduce the Bass output, and this should give you a better overall tonal balance when running with only one section of the Sandbox.

For very detailed notes about this see Half Stack.



Link to a category page. Articles about the B1

Click

{{#Click:Sandbox|T1 Channel 45.png|T1 Channel 4/5}}

Including a Category Page in an article

Scroll down to see Articles about Feedback.

What is feedback and how does it occur?

Feedback occurs when the sound from the loudspeaker (or loudspeakers if a microphone is connected to more than one) is louder at the microphone than the sound of the voice.

This fundamental fact is shown in the figure below.

Microphone Feedback

More generic explanation

Definitions:

Audio feedback (also known as the Larsen effect after the Danish scientist, Søren Larsen, who first discovered its principles) is a special kind of feedback which occurs when a sound loop exists between an audio input (for example, a microphone or guitar pickup) and an audio output (for example, a loudspeaker). In this example, a signal received by the microphone is amplified and passed out of the loudspeaker. The sound from the loudspeaker can then be received by the microphone again, amplified further, and then passed out through the loudspeaker again. — audio feedback: Wikipedia
Audio feedback is the ringing noise (often described as squealing, screeching, etc) sometimes present in sound systems. It is caused by a "looped signal", that is, a signal which travels in a continuous loop. — feedback: MediaCollege.com

FeedbackConventional.gif

Articles about Feedback

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{{#Click:Digitech Vocalist Live 2 - Alternative Method to Connect to a T1®|Image:VocalistLive2.jpg|90px|Read the article on how to connect the Digitech Vocalist Live 2 to a T1®}} {{#Click:Downloads|Image:Downloads green arrow.gif|update your system}}

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  1. Wire up the PS1 Powerstand connections
  2. Connect the B1
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  4. Turn down the R1 Remote Master Level
  5. Power on the System

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Cliff-at-Bose wrote[2]


Depends on the wall construction. Most drywall will reinforce midbass (like 100-250 Hz) and let the deeper octave or so pass right on thru giving you little reinforcement from reflection. So if you push your bass boxes up against the wall, you'll tend to get a lot of midbass with a typical drywall-constructed wall. And, yeah, then it will be muddy. Most walls don't reflect sound uniformly with frequency, so you get a change in spectrum you probably don't want no matter what. One possible exception to this is, say, 6" thick concrete with a 1/4" thick lining of steel. Oh, and don't take my word for it either. Do it yourself and see what you hear. Also, aiming the individual bass boxes won't have much effect as they are so much smaller than the wavelengths they are producing that they are virtually omni. For instance, a 125Hz wavelength is on the order of 8 feet. A pair of b1's on each side of your ps1 will give you a hotter midbass down the middle and not so off to the side. Here, you've essentially made a crude bass array. So, my experience with all this tells me that the most consistant way to set the bass up, gig to gig, is to lump the bass boxes together and keep them away from the walls. You won't get the extra bass boost from the walls, but if you did, it wouldn't be wideband. I think you'll always do better not asking the wall to help. You know what they say about free help (you get what you pay for). This works for bass players, dj's and so on.

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Presets - Ken Jacob 01

Presets - Ken Jacob 01



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