View source for L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker

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{{Model II icon}}{{Model I icon}}{{Classic icon}}
[[Image:L1Disassembled.gif|L1 Cylindrical Radiator<sup>@reg;</sup> disassembled|right]]
[[Image:L1SystemFront.gif|right]]
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== Model I and Classic ==
Please note: The {{L1 CR}}s (pictured at the top of this page) from the {{Model I}} and {{Classic}} are '''not''' interchangeable.<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7521050644/m/9601016844?r=7321056844#7321056844  Line Arrays are not interchangeable]</ref> even though the Power Stands look similar. Neither are these interchangeable with the {{Model II}} 

For complete details see: [[L1® Compatibility]]

== Assembling the L1® Cylindrical Radiator ==
* Video Tutorial {{:L1® Model I Setup / Video}}
* Be careful how you insert the lower section. If you insert it upside down you may damage the connector in the Power Stand. 
Kyle-at-Bose posted.  See: [[{{PAGENAME}}#Damaged Connections in the L1® boot|Damaged Connections in the L1® boot]] (below).

=== Trouble Inserting / Removing Cylindrical Radiator® ===
{{Classic icon}}{{Model I icon}}
Check the screws shown here. Make sure they are tight. 

[[Image:CylindricalRadiatorScrews.jpg]]

Live discussion [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3976055944/m/9601043006 Problem inserting tower in base]

== Bayonet ==

=== Do not remove ===
The Bayonet should not be removed from the top section of the L1. It may be a stretch at first, but you ''can'' get the top portion of the {{L1 CR}} into the carrying bag. After a few uses, the bag loosens up.

=== Adjusting the Length ===
The Bayonet can be adjusted for easier mounting/dismounting with lower ceilings.
Newer L1 Cylindrical Radiator(r) loudspeakers have bayonets with three holes. With the upper L1 on a table or floor, you can easily unscrew the two Phillips-head screws from the Bayonet and reposition the Bayonet so that it does not protrude as much out from the upper L1. This gains you an extra inch of space when mounting/dismounting the upper L1 in places where the ceiling height is less than ideal. Contributed by Kyle-at-Bose <ref>[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/301107819/m/3091053032/r/8851021972#8851021972 Kyle-at-Bose talks about Adjusting the length of the Bayonet in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards]</ref>

== Lower Half Only? ==
<section begin="Lower Half Only" />

Q: Can I run with only the lower section of the {{L1 CR}}?
A: From a technical standpoint it is safe to operate the system with only the lower section of the {{PAGENAME}} , however the spatial and spectral performance of will be greatly reduced, so this has only a very limited application.
- Hilmar-at-Bose<ref>[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/4806048934/m/177104427?r=9641062702#9641062702 Hilmar-at-Bose talks about using the lower half (only) of the {{L1r}} Cylindrical Radiator in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards]</ref>

=== Correcting the Tone ===
Try inserting a &frac14; inch connector in the Bass Line Out of the Power Stand. This will cause the internal logic to reduce the Bass output, and this should give you a better overall tonal balance when running with only one section of the {{PAGENAME}}.

For very detailed notes about this see [[Half Stack]].

<section end="Lower Half Only" />

== Tilting the {{L1}} ==
For best results you want to have the audience within the zone of sound parallel to the {{L1 CR}}. That is, you want to position the {{L1}} so the audience is within the seven foot high wall of sound it projects. If you are on an elevated stage, people above or below the {{L1 CR}} will not be in the coverage area. 

Note: Although there are numerous references to tilting the {{L1}} (throughout the {{forum}}) you must exercise great care that you do not increase the risk of having the System tip over and hurt someone (or the System). References to tilting the {{L1}} cannot be deemed to have been endorsed by {{Bose}}.

=== Staying in the Zone ===
This summarizes some of the discussions in the {{forum}}.

Tilt the Power Stand by a few degrees from the back or the front by a few degrees. Easy ways to do this: 
* Fold a B1 case and tuck it under the front or the back. 
* If you have the logo bags with the wheels, then leaving the Power Stand in the case will naturally tip it down (forward). I carry a couple of sheets of bubble pack packing material in the case and fold it to suit.
* Rubber doorstops are lightweight and can provide a sturdy means by which you can alter the angle of the base.


== Change in the Sound ==

If you notice a change in the propagation properties of the System, check that the sound is coming from both the top and bottom sections. If not, disassemble and reassemble the L1 making sure that everything connects firmly. 

== Slapback echo ==
If you are getting echoes from the wall opposite the stage tip the Power Stand a little (1 or 2° should do it).

== Keep all the pieces of a System together? ==

Note: The components of the {{Classic}}, {{Model I}} and {{Model II}} are '''not''' interchangeable.

'''The following applies  if you have more than one Classic, more than one Model I, more than one Model II ''' 


:If you have more than one System, you do '''not''' have to keep all the pieces in sets as they were delivered. 

:Quoting Hilmar-at-Bose <ref>[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3976055944/m/7051065872?r=9991075872#9991075872 Hilmar-at-Bose talks about matching components in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards]</ref>

:By "carefully matched" we mean that all components of the system (drivers, acoustic enclosure, power amps, EQ, limiter, pre-amps, protection circuits etc.) are designed so that they really work optimally with each other.

:On the other hand we are manufacturing to very tight specifications and tolerances. One L1 is virtually indistinguishable from the next one, so it's perfectly ok two swap speaker and power stands.

== Dents in the Grilles ==
Question: Can I remove the Grilles to repair a dent?

''Since the system has integrated controller/limiter/protection driver failure is very unlikely. All drivers are front-loaded, i.e. '' you simply need to remove the grille and then you can simply unscrew the driver. The only part that requires some care on the L1 is getting the grille back on, since its fairly large and needs to properly seated inside its gasket.
--- Hilmar-at-Bose<ref> [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3976055944/m/926104828?r=293106828#293106828 Hilmar-at-Bose talks about how ruggedness and the L1&trade; in Rugged? in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards] 
</ref>

MikeZ-at-Bose has since told us that the grilles cannot be removed without destroying them.<ref>[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3976055944/m/2801027415?r=6541037415#6541037415 MikeZ-at-Bose talks about painting the Grilles]</ref>


=== Discussion Board Links ===
[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6806048934/m/8371007422?r=5371073522#5371073522 First Dent]
[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6806048934/m/647100116?r=187109646#187109646 Dents in Towers]

=== Damaged Connections in the {{L1 nl}} boot ===
{{Classic icon}}{{Model I icon}}
{{PS1 Damaged Connectors}}

== Painting the Grilles ==
Question: Can I paint the grilles of the {{L1 CR}}?

Quoting Hilmar-at-Bose<ref name="paint"> [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/1506041054/m/4286014435?r=4346064435#4346064435 Hilmar-at-Bose talks about how painting the L1&trade; in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards] 
</ref>

So far black is the only color available. 

They are not easy to paint, because the surfaces have been specifically treated not to take any smudges easily.''

The {{L1 CR}}s are powder coated Aluminum.... Also the grilles would have to be taken off (to avoid getting paint on the drivers), before painting. The power stand is poly propylene which is very hard to paint.

In summary, it can be done but it requires a non-trivial amount of work.

The unit will also operate nicely behind an acoustically transparent curtain. If you don't shine any light directly on it, the black systems won't be visible even if the curtain is very thin and white.
--- Hilmar-at-Bose<ref name="paint"> [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/1506041054/m/4286014435?r=4346064435#4346064435 Hilmar-at-Bose talks about how painting the L1&trade; in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards] 
</ref>

MikeZ-at-Bose tells us<ref>[http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3976055944/m/2801027415?r=6541037415#6541037415 MikeZ-at-Bose talks about painting the Grilles]</ref>

* '''The grille can't be taken off without destroying it.'''
* Solid lettering across the front will affect the sound. But, it may not affect it enough for you to notice - youll need to experiment if you go this route. You could put thin vinyl letters on the grills, and then perforate the vinyl where the grill holes are underneath it.

== Coloured L1® Covers ==
Question: Can I make a custom grille cloth?

Cliff-at-Bose<ref name="custom"> [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/1506041054/m/4286014435?r=5256055535#5256055535 Cliff-at-Bose talks about covers for the L1&trade; in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards] </ref> tells us:

Normal polyester "double knit" cloth is available in an endless variety of colors and patterns. It passes pretty much the entire range of sound and is often used as grille cloth by all manufacturers. A "sleeve" can be easily made by anyone with a normal sewing machine, simply by doubling up the fabric and sewing a seam up the long way, topping it off too. So, make the seam, turn the sleeve inside out and you have your color-of-choice stretch-fit slipcover disguise for your system. 
--- Cliff-at-Bose<ref name="custom"> [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/1506041054/m/4286014435?r=5256055535#5256055535 Cliff-at-Bose talks about covers for the L1&trade; in the Bose® Musicians Community Message Boards] </ref>

=== Custom Slip Covers ===
<html><a href="http://entsyscorp.stores.yahoo.net/bol1slco.html"><img src="http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/entsyscorp_2008_64550" align="right"></a></html>
[http://entsyscorp.stores.yahoo.net/bol1slco.html entsyscorp.com] sells custom slip covers for the {{L1 CR}}.
"These white Slip covers are made from flame retardant spandex for the Bose L1 radiators. Price for 1 slip cover (appears to be $37.50). Select colors are available for $ 64.00 each."  

For photos and more details see: [[Custom Slip Covers]]


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<references/>

[[category:L1 Cylindrical Radiator®]]
[[category:L1™ System]]