L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker

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L1 Cylindrical Radiator@reg; disassembled
L1SystemFront.gif

Model I and Classic

Please note: The L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeakers (pictured at the top of this page) from the L1 Model I and L1 Classic are not interchangeable.[1] even though the Power Stands look similar. Neither are these interchangeable with the L1 Model II

For complete details see: Compatibility with Other Members of the L1® Family of Products (below)

Assembling the L1® Cylindrical Radiator


  • Be careful how you insert the lower section. If you insert it upside down you may damage the connector in the Power Stand.

Kyle-at-Bose posted. See: Damaged Connections in the L1® boot (below).

Trouble Inserting / Removing Cylindrical Radiator®

Classic This information is applicable to the L1® Classic
L1 Model I This information is applicable to the L1 Model I

Check the screws shown here. Make sure they are tight.

CylindricalRadiatorScrews.jpg

Live discussion Problem inserting tower in base

Bayonet

Do not remove

The Bayonet should not be removed from the top section of the L1. It may be a stretch at first, but you can get the top portion of the L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker into the carrying bag. After a few uses, the bag loosens up.

Adjusting the Length

The Bayonet can be adjusted for easier mounting/dismounting with lower ceilings. Newer L1 Cylindrical Radiator(r) loudspeakers have bayonets with three holes. With the upper L1 on a table or floor, you can easily unscrew the two Phillips-head screws from the Bayonet and reposition the Bayonet so that it does not protrude as much out from the upper L1. This gains you an extra inch of space when mounting/dismounting the upper L1 in places where the ceiling height is less than ideal.

BayonetShort.jpg

Contributed by Kyle-at-Bose [2]

Lower Half Only?

Q: Can I run with only the lower section of the L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker?

A: From a technical standpoint it is safe to operate the system with only the lower section of the L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker , however the spatial and spectral performance of will be greatly reduced, so this has only a very limited application. - Hilmar-at-Bose[3]

Correcting the Tone

Try inserting a ¼ inch connector in the Bass Line Out of the Power Stand. This will cause the internal logic to reduce the Bass output, and this should give you a better overall tonal balance when running with only one section of the L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker.

For very detailed notes about this see Half Stack.


Tilting the L1

For best results you want to have the audience within the zone of sound parallel to the L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker. That is, you want to position the L1 so the audience is within the seven foot high wall of sound it projects. If you are on an elevated stage, people above or below the L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker will not be in the coverage area.

Note: Although there are numerous references to tilting the L1 (throughout the Bose® Pro Portable PA Community) you must exercise great care that you do not increase the risk of having the System tip over and hurt someone (or the System). References to tilting the L1 cannot be deemed to have been endorsed by Bose®.

Staying in the Zone

This summarizes some of the discussions in the Bose® Pro Portable PA Community.

Tilt the Power Stand by a few degrees from the back or the front by a few degrees. Easy ways to do this:

  • Fold a B1 case and tuck it under the front or the back.
  • If you have the logo bags with the wheels, then leaving the Power Stand in the case will naturally tip it down (forward). I carry a couple of sheets of bubble pack packing material in the case and fold it to suit.
  • Rubber doorstops are lightweight and can provide a sturdy means by which you can alter the angle of the base.


Change in the Sound

If you notice a change in the propagation properties of the System, check that the sound is coming from both the top and bottom sections. If not, disassemble and reassemble the L1 making sure that everything connects firmly.

Slapback echo

If you are getting echoes from the wall opposite the stage tip the Power Stand a little (1 or 2° should do it).

Keep all the pieces of a System together?

Note: The components of the L1 Classic, L1 Model I and L1 Model II are not interchangeable.

The following applies if you have more than one Classic, more than one Model I, more than one Model II


If you have more than one System, you do not have to keep all the pieces in sets as they were delivered.
Quoting Hilmar-at-Bose [4]
By "carefully matched" we mean that all components of the system (drivers, acoustic enclosure, power amps, EQ, limiter, pre-amps, protection circuits etc.) are designed so that they really work optimally with each other.
On the other hand we are manufacturing to very tight specifications and tolerances. One L1 is virtually indistinguishable from the next one, so it's perfectly ok two swap speaker and power stands.

Damaged Connections in the L1® boot

Classic This information is applicable to the L1® Classic
L1 Model I This information is applicable to the L1 Model I

Inspecting for damaged connectors in the PS1 Powerstand boot.

Image2%5B1%5D.jpg

Dents in the Grilles

Question: Can I remove the Grilles to repair a dent?

Classic This information is applicable to the L1® Classic

Since the system has integrated controller/limiter/protection driver failure is very unlikely. All drivers are front-loaded, i.e. you simply need to remove the grille and then you can simply unscrew the driver. The only part that requires some care on the L1 is getting the grille back on, since its fairly large and needs to properly seated inside its gasket.

--- Hilmar-at-Bose[5]

L1 Model I This information is applicable to the L1 Model I
L1 Model II This information is applicable to the L1®  Model II

MikeZ-at-Bose has since told us that the grilles cannot be removed without destroying them.[6]


Discussion Board Links

Summary

Everything I could find on this (going back to 2003) suggests that on the early L1® Classics it was possible, but tricky to remove the grilles, but it was also problematic to get them reseated properly.
With regard to "adhesive tape" I could not find anything written by Bose in these forums about the method by which the grilles are secured to the Cylindrical Radiator®s.
The Model Is and Model IIs are built differently than the Classics and in December 2007
MikeZ-at-Bose said "the grill can't be taken off without destroying it". source
Since then Bose has been silent regarding removing or replacing the grilles and details on how they are affixed.
Ken-at-Bose has said
"If you'd like us to help you with the dented grill, you must call our service folks." source
Neil-at-Bose has said
"Replacement grills are not sold for the unit. We at Bose are unable to provide instructions on self repair as it would void the manufacturer's warranty.

More information on our limited product warranty may be found here" - source

I am sorry that I can't give you anything more useful in terms of things that you can do on your own.


source

First Dent Dents in Towers


Painting the Grilles

Question: Can I paint the grilles of the L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker?

Quoting Hilmar-at-Bose[7]

So far black is the only color available.

They are not easy to paint, because the surfaces have been specifically treated not to take any smudges easily.

The L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeakers are powder coated Aluminum.... Also the grilles would have to be taken off (to avoid getting paint on the drivers), before painting. The power stand is poly propylene which is very hard to paint.

In summary, it can be done but it requires a non-trivial amount of work.

The unit will also operate nicely behind an acoustically transparent curtain. If you don't shine any light directly on it, the black systems won't be visible even if the curtain is very thin and white. --- Hilmar-at-Bose[7]

MikeZ-at-Bose tells us[8]

  • The grille can't be taken off without destroying it.
  • Solid lettering across the front will affect the sound. But, it may not affect it enough for you to notice - youll need to experiment if you go this route. You could put thin vinyl letters on the grills, and then perforate the vinyl where the grill holes are underneath it.

Coloured L1® Covers

Question: Can I make a custom grille cloth?

Cliff-at-Bose[9] tells us:

Normal polyester "double knit" cloth is available in an endless variety of colors and patterns. It passes pretty much the entire range of sound and is often used as grille cloth by all manufacturers. A "sleeve" can be easily made by anyone with a normal sewing machine, simply by doubling up the fabric and sewing a seam up the long way, topping it off too. So, make the seam, turn the sleeve inside out and you have your color-of-choice stretch-fit slipcover disguise for your system. --- Cliff-at-Bose[9]

Compatibility with Other Members of the L1® Family of Products

This Page Reviewed By Bose

Cylindrical Radiator®s

Cylindrical Radiator®
Cylindrical Radiator®s are not interchangeable across models

Specifically (and without exception)

T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine, T4S/T8S ToneMatch® Mixers

T1 This information is applicable to the T1 ToneMatch® audio engine
T4S This information is applicable to the T4S ToneMatch® mixer
T8S This information is applicable to the T8S ToneMatch® mixer

PackLite® power amplifier Model A1

A1 PackLite AmpThis information is applicable to the PackLite® A1 Power Amplifier

B1 Bass Module

B1 Bass ModuleThis information is applicable to the B1 Bass Module

B2 Bass Module

B2 Bass ModuleThis information is applicable to the B2 Bass Module