L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker

L1 Model I

Classic

Model I and Classic

Please note: The L1 Cylindrical Radiator^® loudspeakers (pictured at the top of this page) from the L1 Model I and L1 Classic are not interchangeable. even though the Powerstands look similar. Neither are these interchangeable with the L1 Model II

Assembling the L1™ Cylindrical Radiator

• Video Tutorial L1™ Model I Setup/Video
• Be careful how you insert the lower section. If you insert it upside down you may damage the connector in the PowerStand.

Kyle-at-Bose posted pictures of damage.

Bayonet

Do not remove

The Bayonet should not be removed from the top section of the L1. It may be a stretch at first, but you can get the top portion of the L1 Cylindrical Radiator^® loudspeaker into the carrying bag. After a few uses, the bag loosens up.

Adjusting the Length

The Bayonet can be adjusted for easier mouting/dismounting with lower ceilings. Newer L1 Cylindrical Radiator(r) loudspeakers have bayonets with three holes. With the upper L1 on a table or floor, you can easily unscrew the two Phillips-head screws from the Bayonet and reposition the Bayonet so that it does not protrude as much out from the upper L1. This gains you an extra inch of space when mounting/dismounting the upper L1 in places where the ceiling height is less than ideal. Contributed by Kyle-at-Bose

Lower Half Only?

Q: Can I run with only the lower section of the L1 Cylindrical Radiator^® loudspeaker? A: From a technical standpoint it is safe to operate the system with only the lower L1, however th spatial and spectral performance of will be greatly reduced, so this has only a very limited application. - Hilmar-at-Bose

Tilting the L1

For best results you want to have the audience within the zone of sound parallel to the L1 Cylindrical Radiator^® loudspeaker. That is, you want to position the L1 so the audience is within the seven foot high wall of sound it projects. If you are on an elevated stage, people above or below the L1 Cylindrical Radiator^® loudspeaker will not be in the coverage area.

Note: Although there are numerous references to tilting the L1 (throughout the Bose^® Pro Portable PA Community) you must exercise great care that you do not increase the risk of having the System tip over and hurt someone (or the System). References to tilting the L1 cannot be deemed to have been endorsed by Bose^®.

Staying in the Zone

This summarizes some of the discussions in the Bose^® Pro Portable PA Community.

Tilt the PowerStand by a few degrees from the back or the front by a few degrees. Easy ways to do this:

• Fold a B1 case and tuck it under the front or the back.
• If you have the logo bags with the wheels, then leaving the PowerStand in the case will naturally tip it down (forward). I carry a couple of sheets of bubble pack packing material in the case and fold it to suit.
• Rubber doorstops are lightweight and can provide a sturdy means by which you can alter the angle of the base.

Change in the Sound

If you notice a change in the propagation properties of the System, check that the sound is coming from both the top and bottom sections. If not, dissassemble and reassemble the L1 making sure that everything connects firmly.

Slapback echo

If you are getting echos from the wall opposite the stage tip the PowerStand a little (1 or 2° should do it).

Keep all the pieces of a System together?

If you have more than one System, you do *not* have to keep all the pieces in sets as they were delivered.

Quoting Hilmar-at-Bose By "carefully matched" we mean that all components of the system (drivers, acoustic enclosure, power amps, EQ, limiter, pre-amps, protection circuits etc.) are designed so that they really work optimally with each other.

On the other hand we are manufacturing to very tight specifications and tolerances. One L1 is virtually indistinguishable from the next one, so it's perfectly ok two swap speaker and power stands.

Dents in the Grilles

Question: Can I remove the Grilles to repair a dent?

Since the system has integrated controller/limiter/protection driver failure is very unlikely. All drivers are front-loaded, i.e. you simply need to remove the grille and then you can simply unscrew the driver. The only part that requires some care on the L1 is getting the grille back on, since its fairly large and needs to properly seated inside its gasket. --- Hilmar-at-Bose

Discussion Board Links

First Dent Dents in Towers

Painting the Grilles

Question: Can I paint the grilles of the L1 Cylindrical Radiator^® loudspeaker?

Quoting Hilmar-at-Bose

So far black is the only color available.

They are not easy to paint, because the surfaces have been specifically treated not to take any smudges easily.

The L1 Cylindrical Radiator^® loudspeakers are powder coated Aluminum.... Also the grilles would have to be taken off (to avoid getting paint on the drivers), before painting. The power stand is poly propylene which is very hard to paint.

In summary, it can be done but it requires a non-trivial amount of work.

The unit will also operate nicely behind an acoustically transparent curtain. If you don't shine any light directly on it, the black systems won't be visible even if the curtain is very thin and white. --- Hilmar-at-Bose

Coloured L1™ Covers

Question: Can I make a custom grille cloth?

Cliff-at-Bose tells us:

Normal polyester "double knit" cloth is available in an endless variety of colors and patterns. It passes pretty much the entire range of sound and is often used as grille cloth by all manufacturers. A "sleeve" can be easily made by anyone with a normal sewing machine, simply by doubling up the fabric and sewing a seam up the long way, topping it off too. So, make the seam, turn the sleeve inside out and you have your color-of-choice stretch-fit slipcover disguise for your system. --- Cliff-at-Bose

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