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Revision as of 13:47, 21 May 2007
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Testing Area
| Sandbox | L1™ Unofficial Users' Guide | L1™ Unofficial Performers' Guide | A1 PackLite™ | B1 Bass Module | L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker | PS1 Powerstand | R1 Remote | L1™ System Holistic View |
| Sandbox | L1™ Unofficial Users' Guide |
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- Wire up the PS1 Powerstand connections
- Connect the B1
- Insert the L1™ Cylindrical Radiator sections
- Turn down the R1 Remote Master Level
- Power on the System
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PAS L1™
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{{A1 EB}} becomes PackLite® power amplifier model A1 Extended Bass Package
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Cliff-at-Bose wrote[1]
Depends on the wall construction. Most drywall will reinforce midbass (like 100-250 Hz) and let the deeper octave or so pass right on thru giving you little reinforcement from reflection. So if you push your bass boxes up against the wall, you'll tend to get a lot of midbass with a typical drywall-constructed wall. And, yeah, then it will be muddy. Most walls don't reflect sound uniformly with frequency, so you get a change in spectrum you probably don't want no matter what. One possible exception to this is, say, 6" thick concrete with a 1/4" thick lining of steel. Oh, and don't take my word for it either. Do it yourself and see what you hear. Also, aiming the individual bass boxes won't have much effect as they are so much smaller than the wavelengths they are producing that they are virtually omni. For instance, a 125Hz wavelength is on the order of 8 feet. A pair of b1's on each side of your ps1 will give you a hotter midbass down the middle and not so off to the side. Here, you've essentially made a crude bass array. So, my experience with all this tells me that the most consistant way to set the bass up, gig to gig, is to lump the bass boxes together and keep them away from the walls. You won't get the extra bass boost from the walls, but if you did, it wouldn't be wideband. I think you'll always do better not asking the wall to help. You know what they say about free help (you get what you pay for). This works for bass players, dj's and so on.
Thickbox