Steve's Tips and Tricks

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Steve-at-Bose shares tips and tricks[1]

  • Use the loop side of the Velcro sparingly. We gave you plenty so that you could put some in several locations (on both sides of the L1, your keys, your mic stand, etc.) and you’ll find that the hook is quite aggressive. It only takes a small strip, say 1” x 2”, to hold the remote.
  • The bags are a bit tight when you first get them. They will “relax” over time.
  • When the top section of the L1 is in its bag, there is room in there for the remote (knobs away from the L1 is best).
  • If your R1 remote gets “thumped” and a knob is hard to turn, you can pull it off and re-insert the knob. What’s happening is the bottom of the knob is rubbing on the cover of the remote.
  • Put a piece of tape (or several) on your remote and mark where you like your settings (much like people do with stomp boxes) so that if they get turned by accident, you’ve got a mark of where you left it last. I’ve also seen people put a little dot of white out for this. Just remember, you probably want something that will be removable in case you change your mind. Then again, there’s always black paint to fix any boo-boo’s.
  • Put your cables in the PS1 bag’s “outer sleeve”.
  • The fuse will fit nicely in a couple of the recesses on the PS1 panel door. Tape it in one of the larger rectangles on the “channel 1 and 2 side” of the door. Now it’s always with your PS1.
  • If the PS1panel door pops off, pop it back in. It is designed to pop out during a “stepped-on-it” event, and is readily reattached.
  • The Bose® logo on the grill of the B1 can be rotated. If you’re like me, and use the B1’s on their side and stacked, it looks nice with the Bose® going horizontally. The trick to rotating them, I’ve found, is to grab the “B” and “E” (not the tails) and pull straight out, then twist.
  • Saving the nice packaging foam when the system arrives with is a good idea. It can be used in a hard-shell case if you decide to go that route at some point in the future.
  • The L1 is slightly loose in its fit in the PS1. This is intentional so that it has some compliance when it gets bumped. As such, it is less likely to tip when someone accidentally pushes on it.
  • And lastly, though I don't recommend you try, the socket in the PS1 where the L1 is placed can hold, and drain, pint of liquid.

And a really good one a little later...[2]

The easiest way to connect your stuff to the Power Stand is to put the L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker (Cylindrical Radiator®) in last. I know it's a bunch of fun to drop the PS1 Power Stand (Classic) / Model I on the floor, drop the Cylindrical Radiator® in place. However, try this once and you won't go back. Put the PS1 Power Stand (Classic) / Model I down, hook up the remote, B1, Power, instrument cables, microphone cables, etc. as appropriate, then place the Cylindrical Radiator® into the power stand.
It minimizes the "pole dancing" that you'll have to do during hookup. Oh, and when disassembling, do it in reverse ... take the Cylindrical Radiator® out first.