Difference between pages "Korg T1" and "Keyboards Mono vs. Stereo"

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'''Korg T1'''
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{{Editorial
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|Author=Cliff-at-Bose
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=== Battery Replacement ===
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Guys
  
In fact the battery is quite simple to replace. The danger is making absolutely you ground YOURSELF before replacing it so that you do not short-circuit one of the boards within it.
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The stereo-sum problem is a general problem for all stereo-sample-based digital pianos and it shows up (in varying degrees) on all mono playback sound systems. Of course it's way more obvious to L1 owners because they (we) appear to be the only ones who can hear what they (we) are playing. I don't need to go into the reasons for this; you all know what they are.
  
The T1 Korg has a "lid" you can life to access the brains. The retaining screws, however, are beneath the instrument and so you have to remove them first. They are 3 in number; one at the left and right ends and the third in the center.
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Most of the stereo-sample pianos are (I think) intended for studio recording. We own a Yamaha CP300 and a GEM ProMega3, used for shows in our live music theater here in Framingham. Both sound awesome in stereo and the Yamaha sounds total juice-a-rama just playing the instrument with its internal speakers on, especially its Rhodes, which I can't really seem to leave alone. Stereo is a proven concept that works. Using the L1, "stereo" is a bigger concept and best realized in a fully-L1-equipped ensemble. This is better than normal L-R stereo. While we would all appreciate a doubling of L1 sales (you need two for stereo), few keyboard players I can think of (including yours truly) is willing to fork out the money or want to schlep the extra gear. Most load-ins are hard enough as it is. Plus, stereo becomes marginal with distance and it gets you away from the localization feature; "your sound comes from where you play". This works very well, especially in the ensemble configuration. And so, mono it is for most of us.
TIP: Mark them with masking tape for the future. You'll have to replace a battery more than once.
 
  
Suggest you have TWO people for this operation to keep the instrument from falling open into two halves. Do this way:
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Most pianos have a GM piano that is normally mono. The PM3 has the original mono-based "Real Piano" left over from the Pro2 predecessor (I own one of these, love it live). I have been using and recommending to visiting players this patch on the PM3. There is also a mono piano patch on the Yamaha that works best. In the case of the PM3, I frankly like the mono-based Pro2 patch better, but it's a pop and r&r perspective; working best in the mix and all that. The big philosophical problem here is that piano makers seem to spend all their time and resources (and probably memory in the instrument) on the fancy stereo patches, leaving the mono ones as table scraps. I think all of us would appreciate some attention to a Simply Great Mono Piano for live shows.
  
# Place the instrument on its backside
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About the only advice I can offer for using a stereo sample is to pan it all left or right and see how this works. A "Y" jack and the "R-Mono" jack will give you that familiar phasey sound, period. But there is a fundamental problem here. The right and left stereo recordings of a piano are made on different locations on the instrument. In stereo, this sounds lush and beautiful but in mono, it's sum-ugly. You can't, simply can't, avoid the physics of interference caused by combining two stereo recordings taken off different locations on the same piano. Does...not...work.
# One person stablize and hold
 
# Second person remove retaining screws.
 
# Now both persons carefully set the instrument back down on its feet.
 
# Open carefully and note that the top shell opens exactly at 90-degrees; as such, the lid can easily fall, so have the asst stabilize the top while you replace the battery.
 
# The battery is located under the center chipboard (it's the largest one). You will have to remove 4 retaining screws on the backside of the Korg and some 3-4 retaining screws that mount the chipboard to the inside base of the Korg.
 
# NOTE GROUNDING WIRES, if there are any, and be sure you ground them to the same place from whence they came when you finish replacing the battery.
 
# Also, do a gentle "test" closing of the lid before you actually seat the lid permanently and replace the retaining screws. Make sure no wire or etc have fallen under the feet that support the lid (easy error to commit).
 
  
If you won't be moving your Korg around (taking it to gigs, etc.) you may consider not replacing the retaining screws on the bottom. This allows you to open the lid in the future to fix other problems (replacment of switches, keys, buttons, etc.).
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I wish I had the magic wand to give you all for this recurring problem but the solution can only be solved by piano manufacturers. It's in the instrument, "Inter(ference) Inside" (TM?)
  
Meanwhile, don't be screwed into purchasing a replacement Floppy for the usual $128 - $300 gougers charge for it. Go online to teac.com and purchase their p/n 193077C5-29, which is made expressly for the Korg T1. They're about $18 (suggest you buy 2 for the future. As of Oct 2006 you could still purchase these from Teac).
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I don't know if piano manufacturers are checking out these discussions, but you would think that they would realize that (1) the gig is mono, (2) live players would appreciate a great mono piano sound and (3) sales might improve if they made this available. Are you out there? "SALES". Get it?
  
There is a problem with the Teac replacement which is the ribbon that connects it to the center chipboard (it's the longest ribbon, can't miss it). A jumpwire has to be added that connects pins 12 and 16. Strongly suggest you have an electronics shop do this for you unless you are qualified.
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-- Cliff-at-Bose<ref>Cliff-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/8766055944/m/5221022354?r=3091081284#3091081284 mono vs. stereo in the Bose Musicians Community Message Boards]</ref>
  
Hope this helps.
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More from Cliff-at-Bose on the subject [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=search&reqWords=mono&exactPhrase=&optWords=&notWords=&f=all&subjectOnly=N&afterDate=&beforeDate=&authorName=Cliff-at-Bose&exactAuthor=Y&sortType=0&ptyp_poll=Y&ptyp_album=Y&ptyp_msg=Y&ptyp_count=3&x_display_post_details=1&groupType=1&search=Search Cliff-at-Bose in the Bose Musicians Community Message Boards] - link to search for "mono" from Cliff-at-Bose.
  
Meanwhile, I'm looking to purchase another T1 in GREAT shape. If you have one or know someone who does, I'll greatly appreciate the contact. I can be reached at: tssent@fusemail.com. I am Jim.
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More...? This discussion goes on for days in the [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=search&reqWords=mono+stereo&use_forum_scope=on&forum_scope=8766055944 Bose Musicians Community Message Boards] - link to search for "mono stereo keyboards" from everybody.
  
This tip came from Corazon <ref>http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums?a=tpc&f=8766055944&m=6611002602&r=4051064093#4051064093</ref>
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<noinclude>
 
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<references/>
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<references />
 
 
 
[[Category:Keyboard]]
 
[[Category:Keyboard]]
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[[Category:Editorial]]
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[[Category:Instrument]]
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[[Category:Clifford Henricksen]]
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[[Category:Stereo]]
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</noinclude>

Latest revision as of 04:26, 10 December 2011

Fountain Pen

This article is an editorial and expresses the opinion and experience of Cliff-at-Bose the author. Please post comments in the discussion page.
Thank you.


Guys

The stereo-sum problem is a general problem for all stereo-sample-based digital pianos and it shows up (in varying degrees) on all mono playback sound systems. Of course it's way more obvious to L1 owners because they (we) appear to be the only ones who can hear what they (we) are playing. I don't need to go into the reasons for this; you all know what they are.

Most of the stereo-sample pianos are (I think) intended for studio recording. We own a Yamaha CP300 and a GEM ProMega3, used for shows in our live music theater here in Framingham. Both sound awesome in stereo and the Yamaha sounds total juice-a-rama just playing the instrument with its internal speakers on, especially its Rhodes, which I can't really seem to leave alone. Stereo is a proven concept that works. Using the L1, "stereo" is a bigger concept and best realized in a fully-L1-equipped ensemble. This is better than normal L-R stereo. While we would all appreciate a doubling of L1 sales (you need two for stereo), few keyboard players I can think of (including yours truly) is willing to fork out the money or want to schlep the extra gear. Most load-ins are hard enough as it is. Plus, stereo becomes marginal with distance and it gets you away from the localization feature; "your sound comes from where you play". This works very well, especially in the ensemble configuration. And so, mono it is for most of us.

Most pianos have a GM piano that is normally mono. The PM3 has the original mono-based "Real Piano" left over from the Pro2 predecessor (I own one of these, love it live). I have been using and recommending to visiting players this patch on the PM3. There is also a mono piano patch on the Yamaha that works best. In the case of the PM3, I frankly like the mono-based Pro2 patch better, but it's a pop and r&r perspective; working best in the mix and all that. The big philosophical problem here is that piano makers seem to spend all their time and resources (and probably memory in the instrument) on the fancy stereo patches, leaving the mono ones as table scraps. I think all of us would appreciate some attention to a Simply Great Mono Piano for live shows.

About the only advice I can offer for using a stereo sample is to pan it all left or right and see how this works. A "Y" jack and the "R-Mono" jack will give you that familiar phasey sound, period. But there is a fundamental problem here. The right and left stereo recordings of a piano are made on different locations on the instrument. In stereo, this sounds lush and beautiful but in mono, it's sum-ugly. You can't, simply can't, avoid the physics of interference caused by combining two stereo recordings taken off different locations on the same piano. Does...not...work.

I wish I had the magic wand to give you all for this recurring problem but the solution can only be solved by piano manufacturers. It's in the instrument, "Inter(ference) Inside" (TM?)

I don't know if piano manufacturers are checking out these discussions, but you would think that they would realize that (1) the gig is mono, (2) live players would appreciate a great mono piano sound and (3) sales might improve if they made this available. Are you out there? "SALES". Get it?

-- Cliff-at-Bose[1]

More from Cliff-at-Bose on the subject Cliff-at-Bose in the Bose Musicians Community Message Boards - link to search for "mono" from Cliff-at-Bose.

More...? This discussion goes on for days in the Bose Musicians Community Message Boards - link to search for "mono stereo keyboards" from everybody.