Difference between revisions of "L1® Model I"

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<br />The {{Model I}} is the new version of the {{Classic}}. It is [[RoHS]] compliant for release in Europe but functionally basically the same.  
 
<br />The {{Model I}} is the new version of the {{Classic}}. It is [[RoHS]] compliant for release in Europe but functionally basically the same.  
 
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<br />Distinguishing features include [[{{PAGENAME}}#Output Section|orange labels on the back of the power stand]] and [[{{PAGENAME}}#Cylindrical Radiator Sections|on the line arrays]]. Also many of the accessory connectors have been removed on the [[{{PAGENAME}}#Output Section|back panel]]. These units have [[Presets 3.0]] with preset 58 on them.<ref>MikeZ-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/867107664/m/6831014954?r=7041091584#7041091584L1™ Model I in the Bose Community Message Boards]</ref>
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<br />Distinguishing features include [[{{PAGENAME}}#Output Section|orange labels on the back of the power stand]] and [[{{PAGENAME}}#Cylindrical Radiator Sections|on the line arrays]]. Also many of the accessory connectors have been removed on the [[{{PAGENAME}}#Output Section|back panel]]. These units have [[Presets 3.0]] <ref>MikeZ-at-Bose talks about [http://bose.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/867107664/m/6831014954?r=7041091584#7041091584L1™ Model I in the Bose Community Message Boards]</ref>
 
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Revision as of 11:42, 28 August 2007

L1 Model I This information is applicable to the L1 Model I

click to go to official site for the L1™ Model I

Announced March 29, 2007
The L1 Model I is the new version of the L1 Classic. It is RoHS compliant for release in Europe but functionally basically the same.

Distinguishing features include orange labels on the back of the power stand and on the line arrays. Also many of the accessory connectors have been removed on the back panel. These units have Presets 3.0 [1]


How to Tell the Difference Between Bose Portable PA Models

This is how to tell which L1®, S1 Pro, or F1 unit you have.

 
2023 - Present S1 Pro+ (optional wireless transmitters), Remote Control and ToneMatch Presets with Bose App
2020 - Present L1 Pro8, L1 Pro16, L1 Pro32, Remote Control and ToneMatch Presets with Bose App
2020 - Present Sub module for L1 Pro32
2018 - Present 4 channel ToneMatch Mixer (stereo)
2018 - Present 8 channel ToneMatch Mixer (stereo)
2015 - Present Flexible Array Loudspeaker and Subwoofer

2003 - 2007 Classic30.pngRounded front. The Output Panel has Amp1 Out, Amp2 Out, Amp3 Out
2003 - 2020 B1 Bass ModuleUp to two per Power Stand (above). More if using the PackLite® power amplifier model A1. 2 x 5.25" drivers, 26.6 lb
2005 - 2020  Allows bass expansion for L1 Classic L1 Model I L1 Model II (not L1 Compact not L1 Model 1S)
2007 - 2012 ModelI30.pngRounded front. The Output Panel has no outputs for Amp1, Amp2, Amp3.
The Output Panel and L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker sections have orange L1® markers.
2007 - 2020 MII32.pngExtending legs, two Cylindrical Radiator®s, Bass Line Out,
2007 - 2018 T1® ToneMatch Audio EngineT1 ToneMatch Audio Engine
2009 - 2021 L1® CompactIntegrated Power Stand and Bass Unit, two Extensions
2012 - 2020 MII32.pngExtending legs, one Cylindrical Radiator® (Top Array), Bottom Extension
2012 - 2020 B2 Bass ModuleUp to one per Power Stand (above). More if using the PackLite® power amplifier model A1. 2 x 10" drivers 45 lb. Three position Bass Level switch.
2018 - 2023 Extremely Portable PA Battery powered



Compatibility with Other Members of the L1® Family of Products

Cylindrical Radiator®s

Cylindrical Radiator®
Cylindrical Radiator®s are not interchangeable across models

Specifically (and without exception)

T1 ToneMatch® Audio Engine, T4S/T8S ToneMatch® Mixers

PackLite® power amplifier Model A1

B1 Bass Module

B2 Bass Module

Documentation

L1™ Model I Documentation

Input Section

Entire Input / Output Panel

ModelI-whole-I-O-panel.png

full sized version of the image

Channels 1 & 2

ModelI-panel-left12.png

full sized version of the image

Channels 3 & 4

ModelI-panel-left34.png

full sized version of the image


Output Section

Orange Label

ModelI-panel-right.png

full sized version of the image

Cylindrical Radiator Sections

L1™ Model I L1 Cylindrical Radiator® loudspeaker top and bottom sections showing orange L1™ labels.

ModelI-top-and-bottom.png

full sized version of the image

Boot

Note the 'flange' at the back edge of the boot (appears at the bottom of the silver colored recess). This prevents you from inserting the L1 Classic Cylindrical Radiator into the L1 Model I Power Stand.

ModelI-boot.png

full sized version of the image

What do the LEDs mean?

L1 Model I This information is applicable to the L1 Model I
Classic This information is applicable to the L1® Classic


Signal/OL LEDs: Channels 1 and 2

SignalOLLED.png

There are two LEDs on the PS1 Power Stand (Classic) / Model I near the Trim knob labelled Signal/OL -- one for Channel 1 and another for Channel 2.

These LEDs indicate when the signal level channel's preamplifier reaches certain important thresholds. The trim controls located near the LEDs adjust the amount of gain in the preamplifier.

The LEDs turn from off → green when the signal level exceeds a small amount.
The LEDs turn from green → red when the signal reaches a level that's about 10 dB below a level that would clip the preamp and cause objectionable distortion.

When the LED is off (but you are playing an instrument you think is connected to the PS1 or singing/talking into a microphone you think is connected): Increase the level of the trim control. If the LED still does not turn green or red, check instrument/microphone and cables to the PS1.

When you see green only: This indicates that there's some signal in the channel but not enough. While singing or playing the loudest you ever plan to in the performance, increase the trim level until the LED is only flickering red. This is the optimal gain.

When you see red most of the time: Decrease the trim level until you see only flickering red. This is the optimal gain.


Phantom Power LEDs: Channels 1 and 2

Phantom Power LED and Switch

The LEDs near the Phantom Power button are either off or red when phantom power is turned on. — more information about Phantom Power

Power / System Status LED

This LED normally is a steady green when the power is on.

Power LED

If it is not lit or if it is yellow/amber, contact Support.

Note: This LED may briefly flicker yellow /amber when the power is first turned on; this is normal. Within a couple of seconds, it should settle to a steady green.


Rear Panel Walkthrough

Model I Rear Panel Walkthrough.jpg


Connecting Other Equipment (inputs)

Connector Types

This section is an overview of connections you can make from a other equipment (mixer, music storage device, etc.) to the PS1 Power Stand (Classic) / Model I.

Audio equipment inputs and outputs are either balanced (three conductors) or unbalanced (two conductors). Balanced signals have the potential to be more resistant to hum and noise.

In addition different kinds of connectors are used for the input and outputs.

Here are the main types:

  • XLR, male (prongs) and female (receptacles for prongs), usually balanced
  • ¼ inch, male (shaft) and female (receptacle for shaft), balanced (tip-ring-sleeve on shaft) or unbalanced (tip-sleeve)
  • RCA, male and female, always unbalanced
  • 1/8 inch mini (male and female), balanced (tip-ring-sleeve on shaft) or unbalanced (tip-sleeve)


Cable Types and Connection to the PS1

Note: The PS1 Power Stand (Classic) / Model I Channels 1 and 2 ¼ inch inputs are unbalanced. There are many kinds of cables that will work but no connection that uses the ¼ input will be balanced because the internal connection is unbalanced.


XLR (balanced) to XLR (balanced)

XLRXLRMF.png

This is the same as a microphone cable but is also used to connect a balanced line output to a balanced line input.


¼ Inch Tip-Sleeve (unbalanced) to ¼ Inch Tip-Sleeve (unbalanced)

tip-sleeve to tip-sleeve

These cables are prone to noise if you are running long lines (greater than 20 feet). Consider using shorter cable runs, or running a balanced line. You can use a short unbalanced cable to a DI or Direct Box (to convert from unbalanced to balanced) and run an XLR to XLR cable from the Direct Box to the Bose System.


¼ Inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve (balanced) to ¼ Inch Tip-Sleeve (unbalanced)

Tip-Ring-Sleeve to Tip-Sleeve

No issues.


¼ Inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve (balanced) to ¼ Inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve (balanced)

Tip-Ring-Sleeve to Tip-Ring-Sleeve

No issues but no better than a simple ¼ Inch Tip-Sleeve to Tip-Sleeve cable because the ¼ Inch input on the Bose System is Tip-Sleeve (unbalanced).


XLR (balanced) to ¼ Inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve (balanced)

XLR female to Tip-Ring-Sleeve

No issues but because all four ¼ Inch inputs on the PS1 inputs are unbalanced, this cable provides no advantage over an unbalanced cable.


XLR Female to ¼ Inch Tip-Sleeve

XLR Female to 1/4 Inch Tip Sleeve

No particular benefit to using this kind of cable as compared to the one above.


¼ Inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve (balanced) to XLR Male (balanced)

¼ Inch Tip-Ring-Sleeve to XLR Male

Specialized instrument cable (probably Guitar)

This is probably a specialty cable that was supplied with the instrument. It is intended for a microphone input on a mixer and will work fine with the Bose System.


XLR Female (balanced) to ¼ Inch Tip-Sleeve (unbalanced)

XLR Female to 1/4 Inch Tip Sleeve

This is often used as a Microphone adaptor cable. Can be problematic. Sometimes you see these being used for home karaoke machines and are not suitable for professional use. The ¼ Inch input was designed for high impedance line-level inputs and may not provide enough gain for a microphone which is probably low impedance.


¼ Inch Tip-Sleeve (unbalanced) to XLR Male (balanced)

1/4 Inch Tip-Sleeve Male to XLR Male

This is probably an Instrument adaptor. May be problematic. You are probably running an impedance mismatch (high impedance from the instrument to low impedance balanced XLR).


Things you can do if the signal is too high for PS1

  • check to see if there is a 'pad' built-in on the mixer (most Mackie mixers have this on the panel beside the XLR outs)
  • turn down the main outs on the mixer
  • use a 20 dB Pad (attenuator) between the mixer and the Bose System.